This is our house in Cape Town, an oasis of calm I was delighted to return to this week, after 4 days in 'real' Africa. I've been in the poorest parts of Nairobi - the attractively named Pipeline and Jericho parts of the city. First impressions were of the kind of third world chaos we're familiar with from television: men pulling carts laden with goods (or rubbish), cheek by jowl with rickety buses packed to the rafters with people. Women carry sacks of grain on their heads and weave between the cars, buses, lorries and minibuses.
The traffic is chaotic: there has been no new infrastructure in Nairobi since the British left in 1963, and in the absence of a ring road, all traffic must cross the city centre. Roads are full of vast potholes, and there's no real sense of where the edge of the road is. So a highway intended for 2 or perhaps 3 lanes of traffic has 5 or 6 vehicles abreast, all crossing onto the opposite side of the road, travelling on the verge and then trying to squeeze into tiny gaps as oncoming traffic bears down on them.
Rubbish is only collected from the richer areas where people can afford to pay for refuse collection, so there are mini landfill sites along many of the roadsides. The smell is vile, but even worse when you happen upon rubbish that has been set on fire - a truly toxic reek. Huge marabou storks scavenge on the rubbish dumps: the size of a small child, they are eerie looking birds when they gather in the trees at dusk, or circle over the poor parts of town, like vultures waiting for their chance to pounce.
Immediately on arrival at the airport, you sense the difference between (in many respects) first world Cape Town and Joburg, and this, the most developed city in Africa outside of SA. There's a dingier feel to the place, the lighting is poor and the visa queue takes me an hour to clear.
This close to the Equator, there are no recognisable seasons, only wet and dry. August is cold, the taxi driver says - it feels pleasantly cool to me, as I had been anticipating feeling hot and sweaty all week. I'm in a T-shirt, the Kenyans are all wearing coats. I splash on mosquito repellent and hope for the best.
At the hotel the receptionist tells me about the new Constitution signed last Friday. It gives more rights and empowerment to women and children. Pity the chambermaids hadn't felt empowered to clean my room - it's 9.30pm on Sunday, I left Cape Town at 11am this morning and my room isn't ready! The hotel restaurant is open so I decide to wait for my room - by eating Thai food in Nairobi.
After 4 days talking to women about soap (some are so poor they go to a local kiosk and buy a slice at a time, carved from a big bar, unable to afford the few shillings a standard piece costs), I start the journey back to SA on Thursday. On the way to the airport at 6am, the city is already buzzing. I had decided to come back on Kenyan Airways, which is excellent - more legroom that South African Airways and, as ever, friendly and helpful people. Amused to see that the safety video was produced by Tyne Tees TV - sadly no Geordie voice over but instead the best Queen's English. Although Swahili is widely spoken in Kenya, English is the only official language making it an easy place to communicate.
Stunning views of East Africa on the way home. Annoyingly I'm on the wrong side of the plane for Kilimanjaro, but the vast savannah plains, lakes and extinct volcanoes below me are still amazing.