The weekend was glorious again. It has got colder overnight, evidenced by the fact that I eventually realised the dripping I could hear outside about 8.30 this morning was actually the melted ice falling off our veranda roof and onto the terrace below. But the sun has a warmth to it you never feel in mid-winter in northern Europe, and temperatures rise quickly with the sun. Though of course they fall just as quickly at sunset.
We had been expecting a wet Saturday and so had planned to go into town and visit an exhibition at St George's Cathedral commemorating a huge peace march in Cape Town in the 1980's. Although Cape Town was always more liberal than many of the other South African cities, it is still hard to believe that only 20-odd years ago the area I'm living in today would have been 'Whites Only'. There's so little of that old South Africa left, though a whole host of social problems to replace the old regime.
In the event, we woke up to early sun bathing the mountains and decided it was far too nice a day to be inside. So we set off to climb Lion's Head, a smaller mountain to the side of Table Mountain. The Rough Guide describes it as 'unstrenuous', so we assumed we'd be up and down in time for a late lunch. Well......I'm not sure what that guidebook would call strenuous, but Lion's Head is no picnic.
The first bit is just a steady uphill walk, but to actually climb the rocky crag to the summit you need to ascend ladders and climb up bits of sheer rock face with the aid of chains embedded into the rock face. Despite a few wobbles about not being able to do it, the girls coped brilliantly. I managed to swing away from the rock on the way down and gashed my shin crashing back into the rock. But no lasting damage done.
Needless to say, we missed lunch, but I did have some apples and a huge slab of chocolate in the rucksack, so we didn't starve. We came down more quickly than we went up and rewarded ourselves with dinner in Camps Bay watching the sun slide down into the Atlantic.
Yes, that is a rose Martini in my hand.
On Sunday we headed down to the beach at Hout Bay again for a couple of hours of paddling (feet going numb in the icy water) and beach combing. Then after lunch we went to visit a new friend of Elizabeth's, a little girl called Emma. Emma's sister Amy is in Lottie's class, so we all stayed and chatted whilst Emma and Amy taught Lottie and Elizabeth how to use a J-Board, a kind of skateboard with a hinge in the middle so that it pivots and turns and is controlled by moving the hips, legs and feet. Basically, impossible, unless you're young and lithe and have a low centre of gravity. They are the craze in SA, and are now on our girls' birthday lists, so that's another thing to try to track down.
Emma's mum explained the school system to me. In theory, there is no free education here. All schools charge, with the basic cost being about 800 Rand / term (about £75 at current exchange rates). This is means tested, so no child is denied an education as a result of poverty. As a guide, a properly paid maid earns about R120, or about £10 a day. So school is a significant but affordable cost, as long as you've got a job of some kind. Of course millions haven't.
Schools like Rustenburg, where Lottie and Elizabeth are, then charge a top up, set by the governing body. They use this money to employ more teachers and so reduce class sizes, to fund better facilities (pools, tennis courts etc) and to offer additional subjects and extra curricular activities. As well as these so called Government schools there are a few private schools which charge considerably more. Everyone is encouraged to stay on to 18 and 'Matriculate', which sounds a bit like the I.B. - 6 subjects studied, harder than O Levels, not quite as tough as A Levels. No 'Mat' certificate, no job with any kind of prospects. Having watched a woman on Hout Bay beach who was paid to pick up dog poo left by those too lazy to do it themselves, the benefits of matriculating are obvious.
It's now after 10pm and the reality of another 6am start is just round the corner. Fortunately SA TV is so dire there's nothing to stay up for. Even the Ten O' Clock News is unreliable, as South Africa has 11 official languages and the broadcasters are supposed to do justice to all. One night it's in English, another it's Afrikaans, on a third it's transmitted in Setswana. Still, we'll soon be closer to school and have a shorter commute to contend with as we've found a house in a suburb called Rondebosch only about 15 minutes from the centre of Cape Town. We move next weekend.
Thanks to everyone who's been reading this so far, and to my Follower! (Pippa, I don't know what it means either...)
Love to you all,
The Huttons